Agra fort is the other must see for Agra. It had a wide, deep, moat which was home to crocodiles, if you made it past the crocodiles you had a forest full of tigers and leopards to conquer. If you managed to get past that there were fortress walls with turrets, arrow holes and holes for pouring burning oil. Within the fort lies the white marble prison that Shah Jahan was made to live in by his two sons who deemed him incompetent to rule. This ‘prison’ is the best prison I've ever seen! It has water features, multiple rooms, panoramic views of Agra and the Taj Mahal can be seen from every window. I get that he was made to live there against his will, but as far as buildings go I think I'd cope. A maintenance man also gave me and Beth some crushed biscuits to feed to the chipmunks by hand in the gardens. As we left the fort we were hounded by street sellers again. This time selling large elaborate leather whips, peacock feather fans, painted wooden elephant key rings, Agra fort text books and travel chess sets. We arrived back at the hotel and spent the afternoon napping, reading, waiting for our evening train to Varanasi. At 7:00pm we took our last trip in our minibus to the train station. There were people everywhere, crammed into nooks and crannies. Families sat on blankets eating picnic style from those silver, stacking, lunch boxes. Vendors wheeled their stalls along the platform selling fruits, street foods, cold drinks and chai. The train was delayed half an hour and I really struggled with the heat and sat in a hot, sweaty, sticky, heap on the platform floor for the 45 minutes until the train arrived. Raj warned us that the train had already been running for 12 hours before we were getting on and just to keep that in mind when thinking about the toilets and getting our beds sorted, because chances are people were already sitting or lying on them. The train grinds to a halt at Agra and we run along the platform looking for our carriage. We are split into three groups, and Dom and I end up in a two bunk section. He shotguns bottom bunk to avoid the air conditioning and fans, and we make our beds. Four men, two on each narrow bunk, squeeze onto the top bunks that lie at a right angle to my bunk, across the aisle. They lie there and blatantly talk about me so I put on headphones, face the wall and go straight to sleep.