Maddie and I woke up naturally just before 7 and had a battle with ourselves. We had lost sight seeing time in Jaisalmer because of the sand storm so there was a lot to see today. We could get up and get stuff done or… Turn over and go back to sleep. It was hard but we got up and were having breakfast by 7.30am on the rooftop. A pot of chai and a honey and banana pancake, plus Beth, fed and watered we’re off. First stop the Jain temples within the fort. Two are open at 7am and the others at 11am, so wander around the two and make sure we don't tip the Holy Men- apparently they pocket the money so you have to put money in the locked donation boxes. The temples are small in size but mighty in detail. No stone left untouched, beautiful repeated engravings and etchings. The first two temples done we walk out of the fort to the merchant mansions, stopping to take selfies with the cows. We were clearly used to them by then. Taking lefts and rights, dodging cows and mopeds we find the mansions by chance. There are two houses, the government owned and the privately owned. We pay 200 rupees and go into the private house. The outside of the haveli is panels of engraved images. No flat surfaces. Climbing the stairs we walk into the first room, I can only imagine that this is what being in a kaleidoscope must feel like. There were mirror mosaics on all of the walls and covering the ceiling. In every colour. The mansion was over three levels with a square in the middle and a large roof top deck with a perfect view of the fort. There were rooms showing various saris, types of turbans, a room showcasing the different styles of padlocks amongst the usual; bedrooms, kitchen, living room, dining room etc. Still having an hour until the next temple opened, Beth and I decided to get some trousers from the street sellers en route. After enough haggling and browsing, 11am came around and the temple opened for viewing. A elderly man manned the door, checking tickets and making sure that shoes were taken off. He had a very impressive moustache and a kind smile. The third temple was bigger, and had colour in it, unlike the first two, but similar statues and engravings. Sitting in the temple people watching, tummys instructed us to head for lunch. We went to a restaurant that Raj had recommended a just at the entrance of the fort and had beers and curry. If someone at home ever said to me on a hot sunny afternoon “do you fancy a curry?” I would laugh but I'm certainly coming around to it. The restaurant talked about the sand storm with us, he looked around 30-32 and said that stand storm was the worst one of his life. It was 2pm when we left the restaurant which was the same time that the sky had been black the day before. We kept our eyes on the chai place opposite the restaurant which is Raj's favourite thinking he might show up to get his fix but he didn't. Feeling a holiday vibe, we slowly walked back to the hotel. I got changed into my new trousers because my other pair were filthy from the sand storm. Beth went for a nap and Maddie and I went for a walk around the fort, we picked JohnMiller in the foyer and set off. The fort isn't as big as we thought so we we back at the hotel 90 minutes later, even though we had spent half an hour sat at the city view. JohnMiller has been having ATM issues so he went off to sort it and Maddie and I went upstairs to the roof deck to chill out. 

The meeting point was the chai place at 5.30pm. Obvious choice from Raj. Raj was taking us to see the lake and then dinner. The water level of the lake was pretty much at it lowest. It fills up over monsoon season. Nevertheless, it's charming. There are stepped domes that you can pedalo or row to and rows of seats.

After an hour or so relaxing at the lake, Raj leads us to another restaurant at the entrance of the fort. We ordered food and all sat there in silence; tired and hungry. The food took an hour and by then I was grumpy. Really grumpy. But then my food arrived and it was my best meal of the trip so far. Chicken badam pasanda. Get in my mouth. I eat it all too fast and make myself uncomfortable (unlike me, I know). Full bellied, I waddle off to the convenience store for a portable breakfast for tomorrow mornings train journey, pack my bags and set the alarm for 4.30am.